Tết at Phin

I planned for this newsletter to go out before Tết on Jan 29th but its completion was no match for the celestial din and firecracker frenzy that herald this most important day in Vietnamese cosmology. Tết is the sole officially recognized holiday at Phin for this reason and, unlike other holidays I largely ignore, it comes adorned with baubles of nostalgia and childhood memories, keepsakes I closely safeguard from capitalism’s hungry tentacles.

Like trying to get a group of Viet folks to agree on the ideal bowl of rice, which traditions truly define Tết will forever escape consensus but, for both pragmatic and spiritual reasons, I have always kept up the practice of cleaning and decorating the shop, which gets an extra thorough wiping and tidying in the days leading to the eve. We clean to ward off misfortune and, just as crucial, our ancestors’ disapproving whispers about our living conditions. This kind of shaming knows no ethereal bounds.

Of all the tasks big and small, I find particular joy in detaching the light bulbs and scrubbing off layers of dusty gunk deposited one errant oil granule at a time with every spritz of nonstick canola needed for Phin’s famous waffles. Over the course of thousands of waffles, these bulbs begin to emit a light, which must contort themselves to traverse the clouded glass barrier, possessing a viscous and grainy texture that adheres to my skin as if I had just walked the muggy streets of Sài Gòn. Bathed in grimy photons, the counters and floor could be spotless and still appear slightly unclean.

Some patient buffing later, these bulbs once again shine pristine. Only then does the shop feel truly clean and suitable for our spiritual visitors.

Today is the 7th day into the Year of the Wood Snake, generally considered the end of Tết week. Into the storage bin go numerous red and gold trinkets, somehow more than I remember having. Next to them are the sentimental baubles that define this holiday for me, freshly polished and ready for next year. The bulbs remain the only trace that anything happened at all.

Thanks G, R, J, T, TA, E for joining me this year in this tradition.

In addition to announcements for the cafe, I look forward to sharing musings and reflections inspired by my time at Phin. That includes my interactions with all of you. I hope you enjoy it like a good cup of coffee (or your favorite non-caffeinated beverage). And please share with folks you might take to the cafe yourself!